postcards from paris
the city eiffel in love with
I don’t even know when I fell in love with Paris, but I have been enamored by it for as long as I can remember. When I adopted a maltipoo 15 years ago, I named her Eiffel, jokingly calling her Eiffel Terror when she was in the bitey phase. I had all of these (unrealistic) dreams of us traveling the world together. But the first time I took her on a trip to Colorado, she got car sick. Bad. Eiffel, it turned out, was more of a homebody.
But at least one of us still wanted to see the world. So when it came time to finally take that first international trip, you can probably guess where I was headed. Israel. I started with Israel- a trip with my parents, some friends, a whole tour group, and even Jimmy Carter joined us for part of the journey. However, a couple of years later one of my friends wanted to celebrate her 30th birthday in style, so we all met up in…
Rome. But not to worry, my dreams were going to come true on the second half of the trip. The City of Love was in my sights. I will never forget the moment I first locked eyes on the Eiffel Tower from the airplane window. And after experiencing the macarons, the architecture, the gardens, and the crepes, I couldn’t wait to go back.
Two years later, I got my chance. Michael and I were off to Europe for our honeymoon. And Paris was on the agenda. Since then, I’ve dreamed of the day we could take our kids. When the Cubs and Cardinals rescheduled the London Series for June 2023, I knew we had just the excuse to head across the pond. So with our 4 and 7 year olds in tow, we tackled London and Paris.
Traveling is hard. Traveling with kids is harder. Traveling internationally with kids? I was suuuuuuper worried. I’m not sure if that’s enough U’s to describe my level of worry. The overnight flights, the time change, getting around, would we regret it all? Not at all!
I am no Rick Steves, but here’s 3 trips worth of tips.
Places to stay:
I follow the philosophy that where you stay can make or break your trip. In Paris, the closer to the city center, the better.
On the first trip to Paris, my friends and I stayed in a beautiful apartment booked through VRBO. I cannot remember what arrondissement this was in, but I believe it was located in the the Marais (3rd and 4th arr.). It definitely gave us that quintessential Parisian feel we were after and was a fantastic area.
On our honeymoon, we stayed at the Hotel Duquesne Eiffel in the 7th arr. We requested a view of the Eiffel tower, but had no expectations that we’d get so lucky. So I was one happy girl when we walked into the room. We waited too long to book this for the family trip, or we probably would have stayed there again.
We ended up staying at the Hotel Castex with the girls. It’s not the most luxurious hotel around, but the location was great (the 4th arr.) and the price was good. If you need two beds like us, you book a double room. The best part about that is you end up with 2 bathrooms! This was such a good area for a family with kids, as it was so quiet. We were in Paris during the riots and never saw or heard a thing.
They also had a light breakfast available in the basement, and the staff was very helpful and friendly. We would definitely stay there again in a heartbeat.
If money is no object, Le Bristol Paris in the 8th arr. looks like a dream. They give the kids a welcome gift and everything! Maybe one day. We might have grandkids by then, but maybe one day.
Places to see:
The icons
Eiffel Tower.
What can I say? I am still in awe of this metal structure. The girls were too. They couldn’t believe how big it was in person. Michael and I took the trip to the top on our honeymoon and loved the views of the city.
I do recommend getting tickets in advance if you want to go up. Strikes are common in Paris, and often cause the tower to close. So that’s something to consider if you’re planning to go to the top.
On the honeymoon, we also really enjoyed a picnic on the lawn in front of the tower, so for the trip with the kids we went that route. Grab some cheese from a Fromagerie, a crepe from a stand, or even cotton candy, and relax in the grass with a spectactular view.
And when you are with the kids, a carousel ride in front of the Eiffel Tower is obviously a must.
Arc De Triomphe.
Even if you just view it from the Champs Elysees, it’s worth seeing. Although the girls didn’t seem to care one bit about it, I do still have a classic “no more pics mom” picture of them in front of it. They’ll appreciate it when they’re older. Michael and I were able to go to the top on our honeymoon, and it provided more great city views. We even saw a hot air balloon taking flight over the city.
And don’t worry, you don’t have to walk cross the famous 12 lane roundabout to get to it, you can go underneath! You will have to take a spiral staircase to the top, but an elevator is available to those who truly need it.
The Gardens
Jardin du Luxembourg.
I love the Luxembourg Gardens. Crepes, ice cream, whatever you want to snack on while enjoying a relaxing time in the park? Sign me up. My friend insisted we go here on our friends trip. I then insisted a visit here on our honeymoon. And on this last trip we discovered there is a playground for the kids. This is one of the top places that comes to my mind when I think of Paris.
We still have yet to rent a toy sailboat of our own, but we all loved watching them go around the pond. I thought this would be the perfect place for the girls to break out their polaroids. McCall may still be a bit young for hers, but Halston got some really cute pics and I wish I’d let her carry the camera around a bit more on the trip.
Jardin du Carrousel.
Situated between the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden, the Jardin de Carrousel was just an area we happened upon on our way to see the Louvre. The minute we saw the bubble lady, I knew we’d be here for a bit. We had encountered a similar vendor in London and the girls had a great time. We grabbed a bite from a food truck and sat down on the grass, enjoying the gardens and the view of the ferris wheel. This area was not crowded, and the girls were able to run round and get some energy out.
We were right by the Tuileries but did not explore them, and I can’t remember if we did previously. So I’ve put this on the list for a future trip.
The Churches
Saint-Chapelle.
The prettiest church I’ve ever seen. I remember studying about Saint Chapelle in college, and it does not disappoint. I knew that the girls would love the colorful stained glass. Unfortunately McCall fell asleep on the way to see it, but Halston loves it as much as I do. Totally worth taking the kids to. We showed up a bit early for our time slot, and I asked the cop if we could go ahead and get in line. And he said, “You want to skip the line?”. And opened up the rope to let us in. Not what I was asking, but I was happy to accept.
Notre Dame Cathedral.
I was lucky enough to tour it on the previous 2 trips to Paris, and it really was sad to see it in its current state. Although, I’m glad they are working hard to restore it so that we can all go back inside again one day.
Basilique du Sacré-Coeur.
It’s at the top of the hill in the Montmartre area. On the friends trip, we stopped by here on our way to Moulin Rouge, and did not feel very safe. But I’ve heard it has the best views of Paris from the top.
Museums
Louvre Museum.
While Michael and I did check the Mona Lisa off the list, my favorite part was touring the apartments of Napoleon III, which I did not even know were in the Louvre. Talk about opulent. I also do recommend seeing the pyramid lit up at night!
With the girls, we did not want to over schedule, so we passed on getting tickets here.
Musee d’Orsay.
I’ve probably mentioned this before, but I was an Art History minor. So going to these museums was really cool to see the college lectures come to life. The D’Orsay was my favorite of the two. But obviously the clocks are the real star here.
Rodin Museum.
Michael and I enjoyed this one on our honeymoon. We especially liked the gardens, what a great place to contemplate.
What to eat:
The treats
Let’s get our prioirities in order here. I’m going to start with the most important part of the meal- dessert.
Laduree.
Those pistachio macarons are just about my favorite treat in the world. And in case you didn’t know, they have other sweets too, including ice cream! I know Laduree is available in several cities now. In fact, it was our first stop in London. But Laduree on the Champs Elysees. I’d do that any day.
The flagship store was under renovation on our most recent trip, but still functioning just fine. We were told many buildings were being spruced up to host the 2024 Olympics. But the treats themselves need no revamping.
Odette.
This was a first for us. It’s located right around the corner from the Shakespeare and Co Bookstore. They’re known for their cream puffs. But the biggest draw for me was the adorable building its located in.
Berthillon.
When I went to Paris the first time, we signed up for a bicycle tour thru Fat Tire Tours and rode thru the streets of Paris, at night. The streets of Paris. At night. I didn’t even remember how to ride a bike at first. It was terrifying. I did not “dominate” as was the motto, but I did survive. Anyway, we rode our bikes to Berthillon for ice cream at some point on that ride. So on our honeymoon we skipped the bike portion and went straight to the ice cream part. And of course we had to take the girls here for their turn.
Angelina’s Tea Room.
I almost forgot this one! We went here on the friends trip for some delicious hot chocolate. It is probably the fanciest place you will ever drink a hot chocolate.
The Food
Cafés.
A big part of Paris culture is the cafés. I had my first croque monsieur across from Notre Dame in 2013, and I can’t stop myself from ordering this when I’m there.
On our first night in Paris with the girls, we stopped at a café about closing time. A café in a prime location that now had the saddest view of Notre Dame. When we were done with our meal, we left a small tip for the waiter and he exclaimed “Merci!” and planted a kiss right on McCall’s cheek as if we’d given him a million dollars euros. It was the most adorable “welcome to Paris” moment. I only wish I had it on video.
One place to avoid is Le Bailli de Suffren. It is a cute little café close to the Eiffel Tower. We were starving after our photo session and it had openings. Now we know why. Our server made it clear from the start that a tip was expected, which is pretty unusual. The food was meh and the price was absurd.
Crepe Stands and Food Trucks.
You can find these everywhere near the landmarks. A nice, easy, budget friendly option for a quick bite to eat.
Fine Dining.
While we did enjoy some finer dining on previous trips, when traveling with the girls that is not on our radar. And since I can no longe remember where we ate, I will be of no help here. But it’s Paris, obviously they have amazing food.
the “geries”.
Boulangerie. Fromagerie. These are great places to grab items for a picnic.
Where to Shop:
High Fashion
Champs Elysees.
The flagship of shopping. While we I did enjoy quite a shopping spree on our honeymoon, on the family trip we only took the girls to the Champs for macarons and to see the Arc de Triomphe.
31 Rue Cambon.
Obviously the Champs is not the only place to shop. There’s a little boutique at 31 Rue Cambon that is also worth checking out. Be prepared to wait in a long line to get in.
Galeries Lafayette.
Don’t forget about Galeries Lafayette, where you can do some shopping under their famous glass Coupole.
Printemps.
Just down the road from Galeries Lafayette is another luxury shopping experience. Printemps has its very own Laduree. Don’t ask me how I know that.
Antique Shopping
Flea markets.
I still have yet to shop for antiques and decor in Paris. It’s definitely on the list for a future visit. On this last trip we passed by a flea market that was just closing up for the day.
The bouquenistas of Paris.
I love the charming kiosks along the Seine that offer books, souveniers, art, all kinds of things.
Shop Local.
On our last trip to Paris, Halston spotted a store that was calling her name. So on our way back from Berthillon we stopped in and bought a few, unique to Paris items to take home with us.
Things to Do:
Hire a photographer
When we went on the friends trip, we hired Paris photographer Pierre Torset, and got some gorgeous shots from the Trocadéro, the Louvre, and a beautiful cafe.
On our honeymoon, we were able to use the same photographer for more gorgeous photos at the Trocadéro.
When you’re traveling with kids, you don’t find yourself in many of the photos. You are the photographer. I knew we had to have family pics, so I reached out to Pierre. He was not available for our dates, but recommended Anais from The Parisian Photographers. She was super sweet and easy to work with!
We started at La Maisen Rose in the Montmartre, then off to the Trocadéro, and finally an idyllic Parisian street. The kids, they don’t love photo shoots. My hair doesn’t either. And we had to get up before 5am to beat the crowds (fair warning!). But we were still able to get some photos that I will cherish forever.
See a Show
Moulin Rouge.
Definitely an experience. I’m not even sure I ever saw the movie, but we had dinner and a performance here on our friends trip. One thing to be aware of is it’s located in the Montmartre district, and it’s a bit scary in that area at night.
Opera Garnier.
Maybe a ballet is more your style, the Opera Garnier offers performances in the most beautiful setting, the Palais Garnier. I have yet to even tour this building, but it is on the list.
Book an adventerous tour
Bicycle tour.
As mentioned above, we did a relaxing bike tour through Paris. It was definitely a unique way to take in some sights. Pro tip - brush up on your bike riding skills before you get there.
Vintage car tour.
I looked into this on our most recent trip, but the car couldn’t seat all of us. Would be a fun way to see Paris though.
Seine River Cruise.
There are all kinds of Seine River experiences. You can join a hop on/ hop off, you can sign up for a dinner cruise. Whatever you do, it’s worth getting on a boat in that river.
Carriage Ride.
My girls won’t let us pass up a carriage ride. So I looked into booking one for this trip, but the reviews seemed a bit questionable and I passed. But if you find yourself on a horse drawn carriage in Paris, can it get any better?
Hot air balloon ride.
I was so lucky to be surprised with a hot air balloon ride in Bruges, Belgium on our honeymoon. But you can also take a ride over Paris with Ballon de Paris Generali.
Take a Class
Cooking Class.
Learn how to cook. I took a cooking class in Rome, and it was one of the highlights of that trip. There are so many fun classes you can do in Paris, and we’ve not done any of them.
They even offer macaron making classes for the kids. I looked into this for our trip, but we just didn’t have the time.
Art Class.
Learn how to paint in the “City of Art”.
Become the next Chanel.
You can create your own perfume and create a handbag from Chanel products.
Side excursions
Versailles.
I visited Versaille on the friend trip. In fact, we did another bike tour here. It was much less stressful. I love Versailles. Mainly, the gardens. I so bad wanted to take the girls here, but I knew we just did not have time to do both this and Disneyland. At the end of the day, they’re kids and that’s the castle they’d most like to see.
And in case you’re wondering, there is a Laduree in Versailles too. Let them eat Macarons!
Villa Savoye.
Located in Poissy, Michael and I toured it on our honeymoon. I always enjoy a home tour, and could not miss seeing this icon designed by the father of modern architecture, Le Corbusier. Talk about a contrast to Versailles.
We booked an Uber here, but then had a little bit of a problem finding transportaion back. I’m sure there is a train that runs close to it, I was just a little bit scared of the Metro back then.
Disneyland Paris.
This trip was not a “Disney trip”. We stayed in Paris and took the Metro to and from on our 2 day park pass. We were all worn out and overslept our first day and then took the wrong train line for a couple of stops before realizing our mistake. But we made the most of our time. Unlike our trip to Disney World, we didn’t book any restaurants. We just winged it and had fun.
These are just the side excursions we have done. There are so many more places to see a short distance from Paris.
How to get around:
Metro
I avoided the Metro for the most part on the previous trips, but I knew we’d have to use it with the girls. I still don’t fully understand the ticketing, but we did somewhat sucessfully get around on the Metro this trip. We only went on the wrong train once, but realized within a couple of stops that we, indeed, were not heading to Disneyland.
We took the Eurostar to Paris and I was very nervous about it, as I knew Gare du Nord wasn’t the best area in town. The pickpockets are all over the place. So weeks before our trip I booked Welcome Pickups to pick us up from here so we wouldn’t be hanging around there long. But while we were on the train from London to Paris, they cancelled, leaving us scrambling to find an Uber at the last minute. Everything we were trying to avoid. They have good reviews, so maybe it was a fluke for us.
Boat
As I mentioned above, this is a great way to see the city and get around.
Walking!
We did not want to lug a stroller around Europe, so we didn’t bring one. Halston did great, and McCall did pretty good for a 4 year old. We walked quite a bit and carried McCall when needed. But walking around Paris is such a great way to explore the beautiful neighborhoods.
If you’re taking kids, my number one piece of advice is to not overschedule. I tend to pack eveyrthing in to get the most bang for our buck, and I knew I did not want to do that on this vacation. Paris has too much to see and do. I knew we would not see it all, and I didn’t make that a goal. I knew what they would not appreciate, and I knew lines would not be fun for them.
The kids loved the little things - the bubble lady at the Louvre, running around the parks, playing on the playground, eating the macarons, riding the carousel, and of course the cotton candy.
When traveling, we never check all the things off our to do list. We always leave a reason to come back. Paris needs no reason, but I’m hoping we see the Palais Garnier and Pompidou on our next visit.
The City of Love. The City I love.